There are two main
branches in Buddhist meditation: samatha (calmness, concentration)
and vipassana (insight), which stresses mindfulness. This
doesn’t mean that the two are entirely separate, since
you cannot be mindful unless you have at least some level
of concentration.
The techniques of samatha meditation are many, some older
than Buddhism, others developed after the time of the Buddha.
Among the most commonly practiced here is anapanasati, or
“mindfulness with breathing.” This technique
was advocated by the Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku (1903-1993),
founder of Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery in Surat Thani. Meditators
at Suan Mokkh (Garden of Liberation), follow the 16 steps
of anapanasati as laid down in Pali texts.
Mantra meditation, in which you repeat a
few words over and over, is also widely practiced. Followers
of this technique may chant “Buddh” as they
inhale, and “dho” as they exhale. The words
may vary, but the purpose of chanting is really to get the
mind focused. Yet another widely taught technique is kasinas,
where meditators concentrate on an object outside themselves,
such as the flame of a candle, or a crystal ball.
Sati, or mindfulness, is key to vipassana
meditation. You train yourself to be aware of the body’s
action, the rise and fall of your chest as you inhale and
exhale, the movement of your feet and legs as you walk,
as well as your feelings, your thought, and finally, the
state of mind you are in. Walking, sitting and lying meditation
are but a few of vipassana techniques. When the mind is
untrained, concentration can be shattered by the slightest
stimuli—noise, smell, heat, hunger, pain, etc. The
key is to become aware of what happens, but not dwell on
it. Still, a novice can only ward off so much distraction,
and that’s one reason why vipassana retreats are usually
held in peaceful and isolated settings.
Meditation teachings
are widely available in Thailand. You can attend a class
at one of the teaching monasteries for an afternoon or evening.
Wat Mahadhatu near the Grand Palace, for example, has two
meditation training centers open to locals and tourists.
Or you may join a vipassana retreat, which usually takes
a weekend or longer. A number of retreat centers, most of
them located in the provinces, run intensive courses of
up to four weeks on an ongoing basis. All vipassana retreats
require you to follow the Five Buddhist Precepts. These
include refraining from harming all living beings, from
taking what is not given, from improper sexual behavior,
from lying and incorrect speech, and from taking
liquors and drugs that will cloud the mind. Some retreats
may require that you take you take the Eight Precepts, which
in addition to the first five include refraining from from
dinner, from all forms of entertainment and bodily decoration,
and from sleeping on high mattresses.
Respect for one’s teacher is inherent
in Thai culture. At the start of a vipassana session, you
must attend an opening ceremony, where you pay respect to
the meditation masters and present them with traditional
Buddhist offerings of incense sticks, candles and flowers—usually
three lotuses or a hand garland. There is also a closing
ceremony, where you thank your teachers and bid them a formal
farewell. Even if you cannot stay for the duration of the
course, be sure to perform this ritual before you leave,
since not doing so is considered very rude.
Once you get enrolled in a course, be sure
to follow only the technique taught there. Mixing techniques
will only confuse you. Usually, you are given instructions
daily, and required to report your progress—or lack
of it—to your meditation master on the following day.
After the interview you will be given advice and new instructions,
or old ones to repeat.
All-white, modest clothing is required at
vipassana retreats. Check ahead if there is a shop on the
compound, or if you have to bring your own. At most monasteries,
simple accommodation and food are provided, usually free
of charge. Talking, reading and writing are discouraged,
as they will distract you from your meditation. And meditators
are not allowed to leave the retreat compound unless absolutely
necessary, so be sure to bring enough change of clothes,
toiletries and personal items for the duration of the course.
For first-time meditators, it might help to attend a day
session or two before you join a long retreat. Bangkok has
a number of meditation centers offering day classes in English.
Many temples around the country also teach samatha and vipassana
meditation. Contact the nearest office of the Tourism Authority
of Thailand for a list of local temples where English-speaking
classes can be arranged.
Muay Thai
You might have heard about it, or even seen
it on TV—the furious punches, crushing elbow strikes,
lethal kicks, powerful grappling and artful feints. But
nothing compares to seeing them executed to loud cheers
and heart-racing tune of an accompanying wind-and-percussion
ensemble. Welcome to the exciting world of Muay Thai, a
martial art like no others, and a proud heritage of a nation.
The history of Muay Thai is interwoven with
the history of the Thai people. A gentle, peace-loving people,
for centuries Thais had to defend themselves and their land
from aggressive powers. They developed a form of close,
hand-to-hand combat best suited for the kind of rough-terrain
battle they were fighting. Over time it became a rite of
passage for Thai men to take up training in this martial
art. King Naresuan the Great (1555-1605), one of the country’s
most celebrated warrior-heroes, is believed to have been
an excellent boxer himself, and it was he who made Muay
Thai a required part of military training. Another milestone
in the history of Muay Thai was the triumph of Nai Khanom
Tom over 10 Burmese boxers in 1774. Taken captive after
the Thai capital fell in 1767, Nai Khanom Tom was picked
to fight before the Burmese king. After defeating ten of
them in a row, he was freed and returned home a hero.
In the old days, Muay Thai was a dangerous
sport, with no safety gear of any kind for the fighters,
and only lengths of cords to wrap around the fists in place
of gloves. Over the years rules have been written along
the line of international boxing regulations. In recent
years the sport has attracted a wide following outside of
the country, and training facilities have been set up in
countries as far as the U.S. and the former Soviet states.
In 1995 the World Muay Thai Council was set up by cabinet
resolution in 1995 to promote this national heritage at
national and international levels. At a conference held
that same year, 78 member countries voted for the establishment
of a training school where all elements of Muay Thai would
be taught. The Muay Thai Institute was founded in 1997 and
is now the only training school accredited by the Ministry
of Education.
Muay Thai, with its emphasis on both offense
and defense as well as on stamina, is a martial art anyone
can learn: men, women, young or old. With the interest in
Muay Thai growing fast, martial-art schools in Europe, America
and Asia have added it to their curricula. Some hire former
Muay Thai champions as instructors, others have trainers
who studied with Thai teachers. These schools may teach
all the right moves and maneuvers, but Muay Thai isn’t
just about punches and kicks.
To learn Muay Thai is to learn about its
roots and its purpose, and there’s nowhere better
to do that than in its homeland. In the past, foreigners
wanting “the real thing” would go to one of
the stables, where training focuses on professional competition.
For those not so inclined, there wasn’t much choice,
and language was sometimes a problem. Not anymore, since
Thailand now has a school for total Muay Thai education
for both professionals and amateurs.
